7. While I'm in Prague, I want to buy some Czech crystal. I'm not sure what's available. Any advice?

Topics in this essay:


Introduction

Prague's historic center is saturated with crystal shops of all kinds. Every main avenue, pedestrian street, and cobbled Old Town lane has several. Some visitors are overwhelmed by the richness of choices. Preparing ahead by familiarizing yourself with different styles of Czech crystal and glass will make your decisions easier once you arrive.

Traditional cut crystal stemware and tableware are perhaps the best-known: wine, whiskey, and brandy glasses, platters, bowls, vases, and candlesticks. You can also find the same variety of pieces in other styles: plain clear crystal, etched crystal, colored crystal, stained glass, enameled glass, and "high enameled" glass painted with gold leaf and decorated with flowers.

In addition there is "art glass": exquisite vases, platers, and bowls as well as sculptures of natural objects and abstract forms. Some so-called art glass shops are packed with a wild array of objects in primary colors. True museum quality works are increasingly available in specialized galleries. The Erpet shop across from the astronomical clock in Old Town Square, has some upstairs. Galerie "Z," with three locations in the historic center, specializes in museum-quality pieces.

Don't forget the mouth-blown hand-painted Christmas tree ornaments, available in late November and December.


SHOPS

Once you are in Prague, Hedgehog recommends the following for the best overview of what is available:

  • Erpet is a company that brings together a wide selection of crystal from not only the Czech Republic but Slovakia and Austria. The address is Staromestske namesti 27, directly across from the astronomical clock.

  • Celetna Crystal at Celetna 15, Prague 1 and a smaller shop at Celetna 7. The Celetna 15 shop has 3 floors of beautifully displayed crystal, and the sales staff lets you browse undisturbed, as though you were in a museum. Celetna is a pedestrian street that begins in one corner of the Old Town Square.

  • Cristallino, at Celetna 12 has 2 shops, on either side of the Hrzan Palace. If you go towards the back of the larger shop, on the right side of the palace, there is a good selection including some beautiful and interesting etched glass as well as the usual traditional cut crystal patterns you find in other shops.
  • Moser, the world famous company founded in 1857, has 2 shops. Na Prikope 12, just off Wenceslas Square, is the older one, more sedate and with an Old World elegance. The Old Town location at Male Namesti 11, across from the astronomical clock and next door to Erpet, is newer and more modern inside. The crystal which Moser makes does not contain lead.

  • If you are looking for art glass, a good place to start is Galerie "Z". One of their 3 locations is just around the corner from Erpet at Male namesti 11 in Pasaz Michelska. Two tall columns flank the entrance to this passageway. Many of their signed pieces are by well-known Czech artists and run into the thousands of dollars. Simpler pieces by newer artists or artisans working in artists' studios are much less. The helpful staff can give you directions to the other two locations.

These shops may also interest you, if you happen to be in the area:

  • Highly original modern designs in glass, as well as furnishings, may be found at Arzenal at Valentinska 11 in the Old Town, about a block from the Staromestka metro station. The exuberant creativity is exhilarating, even though you may find some designs impractical. In back of the shop is an excellent Thai restaurant run by the same artist/owner, Borek Sipek. He obviously enjoys creating exactly what he wants.

  • If you like etched glass, try Galerie Tesar at Skrepka 4 in the Old Town a few blocks from the Tesco supermarket.

  • Swarovski Crystal is has opened many boutiques around town. The founder of the company was originally from Bohemia, though the company is now Austrian. Art objects, animals, flowers, and jewelry are specialties. One boutique is on Male Namesti off the Old Town Square. Another is at Celetna 11.

  • Preciosa, a Czech company headquartered in northern Bohemia, matches Swarovski in the quality and design of its art objects and jewelry, but has a poor marketing presence in Prague. Look for their products at Erpet. Their rather dowdy company store, with 2 separate entrances, is off the beaten track at Jindrisska 19, not far from Prague's main post office. Its primary displays there are chandeliers, but you can sometimes find relative bargains in jewelry and art objects here.

Mouth-blown Hand-Painted Christmas Ornaments

If you are here in December, don't miss the mouth-blown, hand-painted tree ornaments for which the Czech Republic has long been famous. Some crystal and glass shops carry them, but your best bet in Prague for variety and price is to visit the stalls of the open air Christmas markets. The first of these open at the end of November, the rest by "Mikulas" or St. Nicholas Day, December 5. Hot tip: Hedgie's favorite stall is run by a husband and wife team who collect ornaments from dozens of small factories all over Bohemia. Enormous variety. Great prices. Look for their stall in the Old Town Square.

If you are really serious about Christmas ornaments and are driving to northern Bohemia, the Jablonex shop in Jablonec nad Nisou has a mind-blowing selection of hand-blown hand-painted ornaments as well as crystal jewelry, including Christmas brooches in season.

WEBSITES

Most crystal factories and shops have websites. The 2008-2009 economic crisis has caused numerous bankruptcies and changes, and things are still in flux. To preview what might be available, enter the name of the crystal company in your search engine.

  • The Erpet website is the easiest to navigate, has excellent photos, and gives you the best over-view of what is available, along with explanations in moderately good English.

  • The Moser site is now a joy to browse, from the front page, through the virtual tour of its museum in Karlovy Vary, to the e-shop. Truly elegant!

  • Borek Sipek's Arzenal's site in English or Czech. gives a sketch of Sipek's life. The design and restaurant sections will give you a slight preview of what to expect in the two shops. Lots of whimsy.

  • An American woman, Karen Feldman, founded a Czech crystal company, Artel, to produce and export her own designs. Finally, these can now be bought retail in Prague in her shop on Celetna street in the Old Town. Preview some delightful designs online.

BEST BOOK

The best book for boning up on Czech and Slovak glass and crystal before you arrive is A Guide to Czech and Slovak Glass by Diane E.Foulds. Although the most recent edition dates from 1995, this is still your best bet for an explanation of glass vs crystal, for a history of Czech and Slovak glass, and for descriptions of the major glass works, museums, schools, and galleries. It is well-illustrated with high quality photographs.


 
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