FAQ 4 Part B: Hedgie's Hotel Choices in the Historic Center:

Moderately-priced hotels are what most of Hedgie's friends, relatives, and visitors want, so that is what we have concentrated on. "Moderate" in Prague, however, is no longer "cheap." We hope to steer you away from a cookie-cutter international chain towards something historical and even unique, for roughly the same price. As usual, Hedgie's recommendations come with prickly reviews.

Hedgie's caution: When using hostels and other very cheap accommodations you must use every precaution to avoid theft, including the time you are sleeping. We have seen too many frantic penniless young couples without passports, credit cards, or cash not to feel it is imperative to give this warning.

Luxury hotels

If you are interested in value-for-money at the high end, check out Hotel Pařiž, a true old-fashioned luxury hotel in Art Nouveau style. Don't waste your money on a "Deluxe" room, which is just an ordinary standard room so small that two people must choreograph their way around. The Junior Suite level or higher is what you're looking for if you want a bit of luxury. Note that one night in the Junior Suite is the equivalent of the average Czech monthly wage. Hedgie has known the very personable staff to actually apologize for the high rates! The public rooms are a delight.

Another possibility for luxury on your honeymoon or anniversary or simple splurge, is to book the best suite at one of the hotels recommended below. In Hedgie's view, these are better value.

Moderately-priced hotels with character

The Santini Residence, a marvelous boutique hotel, is just below the Castle on Neurodova Street. A four night stay gives you a 25% discount, making this an extremely good choice if you want large and beautiful rooms, genuine historical ambiance, and friendly service. If you splurge and choose a suite, you may feel like a member of the architect Santini's family for whom he bought and renovated this luxury house in 1705.

Check out the website for all the amenities and for 360 views of the rooms. Check TripAdvisor for dozens of candid photos and reviews. Actually, it's even more charming and beautiful in person. When you are there, ignore the elevator and use the stairs so you can examine all the original frescoes there and in the cozy nooks on different floors. The details of wall lamps and paintings and the unexpected turns in corridors make exploration a must. This place has panache!

If you can't get a room at the Antik, Santini Residence, or Hotel Residence Retezova here are some other possibilities, depending on your needs and tastes:

• Grand Hotel Praha and the Apostalic Residence, occupies two separate buildings directly across from the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Square. The website photo shows the two locations. These buildings are restored with beautiful materials and furnished with antiques.

  The 35 rooms vary widely, from tiny to large and luxurious. Some are moderately-priced; a few are in the stratosphere. The website is not as easy to navigate as many others, particularly when you are trying to select a particular room. Suite 221 in the Apostalic Residence was particularly large and charming.

  The most stunning views are of the Astronomical Clock and Old Town Hall. In the back of the hotel, the higher rooms have rooftop views but nothing spectacular. If you need strong WiFi reception, ask at the time of your reservation. Cable is available in all rooms and all rooms are reputed to be soundproofed. The Grand Cafe Praha on the first floor (American second floor) is one of our favorites.

• U zlate studny or At the Golden Well is a small Old Town hotel with beautifully furnished rooms and suites. The narrow winding Karlova street on which it is located is packed in high season with a constant flow of pedestrians walking from the Charles Bridge to the Old Town Square. However, the hotel's old thick walls seem to keep the interior quiet and restful.

• The Clementin, another tiny hotel in the Old Town, sometimes bills itself as the narrowest hotel in Prague. It is around the corner from the U zlate studny hotel (described above) on Seminářská street, a quieter street than Karlova. The rooms Hedgie viewed here are smaller and more ordinary than those at the U zlate studny, but are modern and comfortable. The staff is friendly and helpful.

• Nebozízek is unique. It is not in the Old Town, but in a park on a nearby hill above the Vltava river, with spectacular views of Prague from the hotel and the adjacent restaurant. The appeal of the quiet hideaway location amongst trees and paths is offset by the fact that access is by funicular or by walking through the park from the Castle or up from Mala Strana. The hotel has just 2 suites, but they are beautiful and relatively reasonably priced.

• Hotel Astoria at Rybna 10 in the Old Town is just behind the hulking eccentric black building housing the Kotva department store, recently renovated inside, on Namesti Republiky. Thankfully, its rooms do not look in that direction. The street is short and quiet.
  

  No architectural distinction here, but 74 rooms, 2 elevators, Internet access, satellite TV, air conditioning, as well as a bar, restaurant, and conference room. Room size is adequate. A room near the top gives you pleasant rooftop views from the windows or the long narrow balconies. The multilingual staff are friendly and helpful.

• Hotel Josef is at the opposite end of the spectrum of architectural distinction. as is proudly shown in their photo gallery. The modern interior was designed by Eva Jiricna, a Czech architect based in London. The touches of brilliant color in the pillows and bedding add welcome brightness. Standard rooms are rather small and unremarkable. Larger rooms have entirely transparent bathrooms: walls, sink, toilet, though not the bathtub. This forced intimacy can feel somewhat sadistic.
  The lobby tends to be noisy, with all sounds reverberating in the spare environment, and there are no comfortable chairs to sink into after a hard day's walking. It is ultra chic, but not a people-friendly design. The hotel is on Rybna street, steps from the Astoria.

Kampa Island

Kampa Island, an island adjacent to Mala Strana right at the Charles Bridge and home of many embassies and a quiet park, is a unique and appealing location. The area is beautifully polished after the 2002 flood, with little sign of the twelve-foot deep waters.
• U zlatých nůžek or At the Golden Scissors, a hotel and restaurant, is right on the square. This building has been completely restored since the flood. Rooms are very pleasant though plain, rates reasonable, and guests say it is quiet despite its proximity to the Charles Bridge.

• Hedgie emphatically DOES NOT RECOMMEND Hotel Best Western Kampa. It is NOT actually on Kampa Island itself but across the Certovka channel in Mala Strana. Viewing the on-line photos, you may wonder whether the public rooms have genuine ambiance or manufactured kitsch. In person, you see the stained glass windows are fake, the reception area's roughly painted blue ceiling with gold stars sets one's teeth on edge, and the suits of armor in every niche of the dining hall will appeal primarily to young children. The rooms are plain with cheap carpeting and the bathroom we viewed was a tiny prefab unit wedged in near the door. We are surprised to see this standard in an international chain. Look elsewhere for better value.

Other Cautions

The second, Hotel Central, one of several Prague hotels with that name, is on Hybernska street near the Powder Tower. No big problem with the address. The exterior photo shows the lovely Art Nouveau facade, carefully cutting out the cheap shops nearby.

The interior renovations, however, have done major damage. The building must have been completely gutted to create the spaces there now. The brutal contemporary decor, in dark browns in the vast empty lobby and in beige and black elsewhere, is completely soulless. (A number of large Prague "conference hotels" seem to feel this is chic.) The dining area is on an elevated platform under a glass roof, in what was the courtyard. The "spa" area is awkwardly jammed into a cramped basement space with no appeal whatsoever, as if it had been installed only so the hotel could list it as an amenity. A wing of tiny modern bedrooms is tucked behind the dining area. Only one bedroom ceiling in the older building appears to have kept its delicate stucco swirls. Directly below this lovely ceiling is what appears to be a stiff foam slab meant to serve as a couch or a third bed. This is a travesty.

Save your money. This is not what you come to Prague for. If your conference lands here, however, the staff is very friendly and helpful.