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4. I see lots of hotels online, but I can't tell which are the preferred parts of town. What do you recommend?
This is a comprehensive essay. The topics covered are:
Part A:
Where is "the center"?Many hotels stretch the meaning of "center" in their advertising. Another exaggeration: "20 minutes from the airport." (Maybe - if you are leaving at midnight!)How can you know whether the hotel is on a very noisy street, is not in a picturesque area where one would enjoy a stroll, or is a long walk from public transportation? Hedgie's advice: Before you book your hotel, use Google Maps with "transit" activiated, then use Street View, along with our hints and the hotel's address.
Preferred LocationsThe cost of the accommodation is strongly influenced by location. The distance to the historical center is one significant parameter, but there are other desirable/undesirable factors. The "preferred parts of town" for most visitors are in the true "center" of the city, often referred to as the "historical center.":
The first three are in the flat area on one side of the Vltava River; the last two, on the hilly slopes on opposite side. Four of the five sections are old, charming, and packed with interesting things to see. The Old Town and the adjacent Jewish Quarter are perhaps the most pleasant to stroll because of their pedestrian streets and severe restrictions on traffic and parking. If your hotel is here, you will generally walk out your door into a world of fascinating facades, cobbled sidewalks and streets, cafes and restaurants, boutiques, Gothic and Baroque churches, and famous sights. In season, you will likely encounter large groups of other visitors doing the same thing. Mala Strana and Hradcany have many of the same charms and may have fewer crowds, but you will have to contend with the hills. New Town (Prague 2), though founded in 1345 and retaining many lovely older streets and buildings, is a much larger section of the city and much more diverse. The streets are wider, there is more traffic, and trams cross it in all directions. The pretty Vinohrady area has nicely restored facades and many little restaurants and shops, but some streets have noisy trams and high traffic. Avoid staying on Wenceslas Square. A few of the side streets leading off the square feature "erotic" clubs, creating a less-than-desirable ambiance at night. This section, Prague 2, has one major problem the other historic quarters do not.
The "Magistrala" corridorBecause Prague has no real "ring road" or beltway around the city as yet, much of the traffic crosses through the New Town to get to the other side. Anything on this route is plagued by non-stop noxious noise and exhaust fumes. Not a place to stroll! For this reason, avoid any of the hotels directly on or near what locals call the "magistrala," especially Legerova and Sokolska streets. The route to avoid: The main streets, Legerova and Sokolska, enter and exit Prague 2 near the Nusle Bridge spanning the Nusle Valley near Vysehrad. They funnel traffic down behind to the National Museum and the State Opera House at the top of Wenceslas Square, then in front of the Main Train Station, near a Hilton, and over the river to Prague 7. Beyond the Historic CenterPrague 4 and Prague 7, just outside the historic center, have many well-advertised hotels, large and small. The difficulties with Prague 4, an area heavily developed with new business buildings, are public transportation and ambiance. Many hotels near public transport have no exterior or interior ambiance, and those with ambiance are on bus lines only. Use Google maps and street views to check your choices. Prague 7 is a huge and diverse city quarter with distinct areas. The Holešovice area, once highly industrial, is now being renovated, gentrified, and "developed." The Troja area, unless you have reason to be near the Zoo and Chateau Troja, is too far and has few quick public transport options. The Letna area, however is different. Situated between two large beautiful parks , it has charm and numerous trams taking you to the center in about 7 minutes. Strossmayer Square is the hub for trams. Vltavska is the nearest (graffiti-covered but safe) Metro stop. Sights include the National Gallery's museum of 20th and 21st century art, the Art Nouveau exhibition (Výstaviště) buildings, and the newly-reconstructed Technical Museum. (See Hedgie's review of the Technical Museum's exhibits.) Restaurants are generally adequate and inexpensive. This is a predominantly Czech area, so you won't find many other languages spoken in most shops. Large hotels near Stromovka and Letna parks include the Park and the Belvedere. Both cater to groups as well as individuals. Neither architectural charm nor employee charm are their strong suits, but they are adequate and convenient. Smaller hotels and pensions can be a better bet, but check travelers' reviews (e.g. TripAdvisor) and locations carefully. Do not book something too close to the Sparta soccer stadium due to noise from the games and nearby tunnel construction. Hedgie can not vouch for the quiet or safety of any of the extremely cheap hostels in Holešovice.
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